Really, it is time to drink

There have been many heated satellite connections between here and Burgundy on the subject of Salon’s cellaring potential. I think the Jury is out until a tasting at the producer can be organised, but this is really up for drinking. It is quite, quite lovely.

Blanc des Blancs Le Mesnil 1996, Salon

A lovely nose of buttered bread and creamy minerality. This is fresh and lively, but the aromas to seem the merest hint on the oxidative side (is that ‘brown’ verses ‘grey’ aromas?). I cannot deny it is really complex, vinous and very compelling. The palate is very vinous too, like a Grand Cru Chablis of quite mind-buggering brilliance that has the most refined of mousses. It is totally pleasing Champagne, with surprising density and thrilling complexity for a Blanc des Blancs. Why risk ageing it? This is currently delivering extraordinary pleasure. I’ll open mine soon.

Some may disagree, but I prefer Krug.

I wonder if the 1996s will have the longevity I orginally expected. I’ve got some great stuff, that I don’t want to get over the hill, but properly mature Champagne is a marvel.

  • Peter S

    David, lovely to have you back and writing – and enjoying wine. Well done on cracking the Salon. Life is for living and wine is for drinking. Hope to drink some with you soon…

  • ed tully

    Yes, I too prefer Krug, although preference becomes a little silly when both are so good. DP 96 is also very good…

  • Jeremy

    Krug is more impressive, but I can’t say that it overwhelms me with its charm. I find that Winston Churchill is the one I see the most pleasure in, long term. Currently, it’s hard to beat Salon’s delicate sensuality.

  • David Strange

    The Salon 96 was certainly a comedically fine bottle of wine. And back in the day the 82 was utterly amazing. I just have many happy memories of Krug, espeically several bottles of 85, 88 and 90 drank with Daniel during happy times. Each one is burned on my memory.

    Since I am yet to be corrupted by this liking of DP, I cannot deny that many bottles of Winnie have also been the cat’s freaking arse. I’ve got a mag of 96, a gift, and I will open it for my all too close 40th.

    I think you’ll like Clos des Goisses when you finally get to try one of your stash.

  • David Strange

    You know the prestige cuvee I miss? PR, or Cuvee Especial, or whatever, from Pol. James opened a bottle of 88 for my birthday, quite incredible.

  • Jeremy

    I have tried Clos des Goisses, several times at this stage. It is very fine, though in the case of the 96, mixed experiences depending on disgorgement date. Ed, Peter and i had the 1991 over New Year’s (good) and I shared an excellent 1990 with JL Vacheron last month. But that cuvée really should not be advertised any more than it is. Prices have already gone up 40% this year.