The wine lineup for your birthday looks quite a lot more to my taste. Perhaps I will come after all. I, like you, find nice things nicer than nasty things. That Pommard Rugiens is not nice, it tastes like an old alcoholic cat’s rude bits.

The Bollinger is certainly good, what else could they have done with the grapes that year and isn’t it an accurate reflection of those vintage conditions? A very well-made reflection, I feel, sold at an age for maximum hedonistic enjoyment.

I think that Pommard will be a truly marvellous drink in ten years’ (or more) time. It flashes with specks of that greatness even when this young. It was a fascinating tasting we attended; Christopher the NZ winemaker was there after the debacle of Pousse d’Or he was utterly bowled over by the quality, style and class of Yves Confuron’s wines. I am sure Yves, if you had the balls to say that you were not impressed by his wines in his company, would happily quote Jean-Michel Deiss’ line to Rovani “You are simply incapable of understanding the greatness of my wines”. I didn’t really go for his 04s, to be honest (so I too am incapable), but 99, 00, 01, 02, 03 and now 05s are the cats rude bits. Aren’t they rude?

Noel and Pierre-Marie can deliver the goods, alright. I was wrong to question your trust in Clape, Jeremy, but they are frighteningly expensive. I’m bringing a 98 Clape and a 98 Rochepertuis out of my cellar in Oxford in a couple of weeks; I shall try them together and think carefully as I taste.

I’m also bringing out some mags for my birthday this year. What do you think about: mag 1997 Barolo Nei Cannubi from Einaudi (the neighbours’ contribution), mag 2001 Abtsberg Auslese von Schubert, mag Gratien 1996 and a mag of Lambrays 1999?

It was wonderful to see you and thank you for opening those exciting wines. However, I was surprised by your part of the lineup: 2 x 2003 and a pretty heroic 2004 Riesling (Daniel’s contribution). While the latter still fell in the broad category of elegance, the Bollinger could have wrestled cattle, and the Pommard gone boar-hunting with only it’s alcoholic fists as weapons. I differ from you in my appreciation of those two wines. I apologise for this subjective take on your objective reality.

The two 1999 Cornas’ were wonderfully delicious. I love the appelation and those two old school producers performed superlatively. Wow!

Keep well and look forward to future drinking!