The last wine of Valentine’s day

Sadly, not as good as the last two. It is a half bottle, though; we won’t have to suffer too much. Yves’ brother, Pierre Soulez, makes utterly brilliant Savennières The name is really rather cumbersome.

Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin Selection des Grains Nobles les Simonnelles 1997, Château de la Genaiserie/Yves Soulez

This has a golden hue, not too orange at all. The nose is incredibly botrytic, with wet wool hints and a degree of minerality. Botrytis is the main feature here, though. The palate is very sweet, quite silky and reasonably elegant, but just lacking a touch of excitement and verve. It is not as if it is short of acidity, it is just short of passion and flair. This is reasonably good, but the Château de Fesles 1997 we had at Christmas was a lot better.