At the beginning of October we are travelling to the Basque country. We have been there before and it is one of the best places for eating in the world. Whilst there are the glories of many-starred restaurants there, I have to admit the place I am most looking forward to going is rather more humble. Casa Nicolas in Tolosa is the site of the best piece of beef I have ever eaten. Pedro, the owner who is perhaps the least healthy person I have heard coughing their lungs up in a kitchen, grills stunningly brilliant ox chops slowly over a fire. The meat is incredible; very marbled and meltingly tender. I am greatly looking forward to visiting. It will be great food-a-go-go.