I’ve said this before, but there is no harm in saying it again. Recently I’ve had a few heroic wines that I’ve quite liked, the Morgat Savennières and the 2001 Tempier spring to mind, but these are really not the wines I drink out of choice. I like my wines to be harmonious, balanced and refined; ideally bursting with charm and loveliness as well. The Cathiard and the two Arlaud wines I’ve had over the past two days have fitted this description perfectly. They have been concentrated and flavourful, but never overbearing or hard work. As I sit here finishing off my glass of Arlaud Ruchots I just feel charmed, happy and excited to be drinking it, I don’t feel tired. Balance and harmony, that is what we like. In view of this I shudder in horror at the prospect of opening the bottle of Australian Zinfandel I picked up today; it is sixteen percent. Oh dear.