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Up for drinking

I don’t drink that much Italian wine, the good ones are really expensive, but I do like a few of the styles very much. This blistering fireball of intensity is actually quite nice.

Brunello di Montalcino 1997, Eredi Fuligni

One of my favourite producers of Brunello, this is the first time I’ve tried a 1997. A famously ripe vintage, and it shows. The nose is quite hot, and jam-packed with ripe red fruit. It is a bit woody, too, but in view of the extreme fruit and booze on the nose this seems oddly in balance. The palate seems sedate in comparison, until the finish which has a hot burn. The tannins seem remarkably ripe and soft, mature even; it is not as drying as these wines can often be. The wood stands out a bit, but again given the ripe fruit and ripe tannins this seems balanced. This is drinking as well now as I think it ever will. On balance (balance is very important) I prefer the 1998 which I’ve had a few times, it is far more elegant and refined. However, this does have balance and it is comedically structured so quite nice, I think.

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