Flawed genius

Tonight’s wine comes from a genius when he was at the height of his powers; as opposed to now when he produces filth.

Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 1993, Domaine Marcel Deiss

This has a beautiful, exotic nose of passion fruit, mango, lime and earth. It is quite a German-style Riesling nose. The palate is wonderfully balanced and precise, and almost totally dry unlike his more recent offerings. This acidity is strong but perfectly balanced. The palate of this wine is like Michelangelo’s David: beautifully sculpted, elegant, yet quite masculine. There is plenty of fruit, the finish is very long and it really speaks of where it was grown. This is a fabulous wine. Why, Jean-Michel Deiss, did you start making atrocious monstrosities rather than beauties like this?

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