Burgundy for (softly-spoken) heroes

Nuits is slightly earthier, more meaty and generally butch than wines from my favourite Burgundy villages. However, a good example will still have elegance and balance, and this is a terribly good example.

Nuits St Georges Premier Cru Vaucrains 2002, Robert Chevillon

A heroic nose, exploding with ripe fruit, earth and spicy-richness. There is plenty of good, ripe Pinot fruit there and it is also noticeably Nuits in its slightly rustic character. The palate also has a bit of toughness, with some high acidity, but the incredibly ripe fruit balances this out perfectly. It is long, harmonious and full of grace. I have not had a heroic Burgundy that was quite so beautiful since I last had the 2001 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux from Comte Armand. This may be incredibly ripe and intense, but balance is the feeling one is left with as the very long finish subsides. The elements all work together very well, and it is in no way over-powering. A serious, but lovely, wine.

In its first flush of youth this is lovely. It probably will close down for several years, but I imagine it will re-emerge as a great wine of style and class.

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