Cricket and Riesling

I swore that if I purchased any 2003 European white wines (after my disaster with buying German stuff) I should be mercilessly mocked. So, stick a dunce’s cap on me and stand me in the corner because today’s glass of wine with the cricket was:

Domaine Albert Boxler Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg L31D 2003

Jean Boxler is a charming and gifted young man. He can also do things with Riesling that would make your eyes water with pleasure. He vinifies each plot of the Grand Cru Sommerberg Riesling separately and produces a range of wines that are all recognisably Sommerberg, but all have an individual charm and character. The L31D is the cuvée from his oldest vines. Obviously 2003 was far too hot for serious white wines to be generally made, but M. Boxler did make damned good stuff. This is a bit hot and alcoholic (best drank out of the fridge) but the fruit, concentration, complexity and style make this one exciting, racy, booze-tastic drink. I really enjoyed it. There was acidity and mam-loads of minerality. This was a seriously glass of quite large-scale Riesling. Cheers, Jean.

Obviously, Riesling is best with cricket; Champagne or Fino Sherry will do at a pinch.

Finally, you can point at me in my corner and shout “Shame!” as I purchased two cases of 2003 wine from M. Boxler.

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